They May Just Be Right.

Jules Heartly | June 2023

When I knew for sure I was going to be in the Dolomites, I added this place to my stop list. 

While sorting out one of those moments, when the sudden departure of a loved one reminds us of the cycle of life, I was offered the opportunity to travel to Italy and witness one of the Giro D’Italia cycling stages.  One in the mountains, but not any mountains but the #Dolomites!

I thought the opportunity would be a good distraction from the emotional pain, and an opportunity to, as a good cycling fan, cheer up some of my favorite riders while bringing some needed joy to my soul. 

The car ride from my team’s  meeting place in Rapallo, (Luguria region) to Canazei (province of Trento) took 6 hours.  Time ridden during a “cloudy day with a chance of rain”, which materialized more often than in the weather forecast.

  After a good  number of tunnels, curvy roads and interesting scenery, we arrived at Penia (in Canazei), where our hosts, GianLuca and Alida, were ready to welcome us with a big  fresh baked apple strudel and an even  larger hug. 

The sun surprised us by coming out at the unexpected hour, like wanting to highlight the dramatic mountain backdrop framing the house.

The following day, we gathered our gear and head out to start scouting the roads where the #19th  stage of the Giro would take place.  As we drove away towards Paso Fedaia, we shared the road with cycling  enthusiastics, challenging themselves to the steep climbs of this area of the country.  One  team that caught my attention was the father and daughter team of Jean Pierre and Lisa, who with style and stamina conquered the Paso Fedaia.

 -”The Passo Fedaia is a mountain pass traversed by a paved road in the Dolomiti Range in Northern Italy. It lies at the northern base of the Marmolada, the highest peak in the region and the Dolomiti. It is known for its beauty, for Lago Fedaia, and for its use in the Giro d’Italia”- 

Jean Pierre and Lisa,  both from Belgium, had also arrived in the region to watch the Giro live and cheer for their favorite riders,  among them #RemcoEvenepoel. 

The Day Before the Race.

Late spring and early summer weather in the dolomites region is usually warm with clear blue skies, but this 2023 it had not been the case.  Most days were overcast and with periods of rain, which was the reason why we did a lot of sightseeing by driving instead of by hiking, biking, .etc. 

On the first sunny day,  myself and other tourists in the region took to the trails and the roads, to hike or bike. Taken by the beauty of the area, I sort of overextended my walk and ended up going further than planned on an easy path  along one of the many creeks in the Canazei region. 

On my way back, I was wishing I would have parked the car at a closer location.  That is when I saw an elderly italian woman, leisurely walking ahead of me using her hiking poles.  Doing so gave me a burst of energy and of confidence?  I thought I could do this too!  And I happily walked the rest of the way.

Afterwards, I reunited with my team, and drove to Alta Badia, with the intention of meeting @IgorTavella, an outdoors enthusiast, a loving promoter of activities in the Dolomites (Cycling, skiing, hiking etc) via his YouTube channel. 

Most of us had watched not only his sports videos, but the stories about his family owned Ustaria Posta Hotel and restaurant,  its prime location in the heart of the Dolomites, constant offering for outdoors enthusiasts and the authentic Italian cuisine served there. 

Ustaria Posta, is a small hotel,  established in 1877, when it was not only a hotel, but a bakery and post office. Today,  this family business  continues to offer the same tradition, hospitality, and home cooking that have guests coming and returning ever since. 

The Italian Dolomites are a mountain range located in northeastern Italy and are part of the Southern Limestone Alps. This stunning natural wonder is known for its jagged peaks, breathtaking views, and unparalleled hiking and skiing opportunities. The region offers many adventures for outdoor enthusiasts, including hiking trails, mountain biking, rock climbing, skiing, and snowboarding. Visitors can explore the stunning landscapes, walk through picturesque villages, and enjoy traditional Italian cuisine. The Dolomites also provide a unique opportunity to experience the blend of German, Austrian, and Italian cultures. Overall, the Dolomites offer a memorable and unique outdoor experience that is sure to create unforgettable memories.

We arrived at Osteria La Posta, early enough to secure a table with  no wait, and to avoid the rain that came down hard without any warning.  Igor Tavella  and his cycling buddies weren’t  that lucky, as we learned later, when he arrived, wearing a big smile and a soaking wet cycling gear.   

Myself and the whole team were excited to meet him.  There was this hilarious feeling like when one meets a movie star you are a fan of.  Hugs and pleasantries exchanged, we got into an interesting small talk about living in the Dolomites.  Igor’s characteristic funny and cheerful attitude made the conversation  hard to stop. 

Quickly, we met part of his family, which helped me understand the reason behind the quality of the food, home fresh made Italian cuisine, and the outstanding service. 

When the rain stopped, we said our goodbyes and got up to continue our area scouting plan, but the magic of the day wasn’t over… right on our way out, at a bar table, in an unforeseen way, I met Maatje, a Belgian woman from Bruges, who had just finished her daily solo hike.  We started with a casual conversation but quickly navigated  the deepest themes of life, of the definitions of good and bad, of ghost stories haunting from the past and spoiling a beautiful present, the self encounters when hiking solo the Dolomites, the near death experience lived the previous year, and the promise made by her and her husband  to hike in the Dolomites if she made it  through that difficult moment,  also talked about  what it means to live in a highly known tourist town as it is Bruges…In 15 minutes, we had discussed enough material for a couple of books in different genres.

During our chat, we paused and  hugged as if we knew each other forever. As  we embraced, the question of a hello or a goodbye never came up.  

Maatje and her husband Lode, who was away for work that day, were also planning to watch the Giro De italia 19th stage.  The news opened a possibility of another insightful conversation and the sharing of perhaps another life moment.

Having witnessed  a few of the big cycling events live already, we knew the best places to see the action up close and loud was at a mountain hill. There, even the best cyclists would be forced to  slow down, making it a perfect moment for the public to recognize and cheer them.

That evening we made plans to hike up to Paso Falsarego.  A high mountain pass in the province of Belluno (Italy), that mainly connects the territory of Agordo and Cortina d’Ampezzo.

We were to meet at a nearby parking lot and start the one hour hike early enough before the crowds arrived and the road closures announced by the Giro d’Italia organizers took place.  A picnic was added to the agenda by Maatje and Lode.  The weather forecast was of spring-like temperatures and minimum chance of rain.  It all called for an unforgettable time watching the #19 stage live. 

A Day In The Life of a #Cycling Fan – The Day of the Race: Giro D’Italia stage#19

I got up early, did my yoga routine to get ready for the day ahead.

Got our stuff and maps ready and left with no time window for mishaps.

But as per Murphy’s law as soon as we started the drive, the first one took place.   The car was low on gas and the GPS indicated we were not close to a gas station. This caused a major delay.

I got nervous. Checking  road closures times,  it seemed we still could make it… but as we arrived to the town of Corvara my fears materialized. The “carabineri” started the road closures ahead of time and even people whom had gone up half an hour earlier were forced to return, as I found out later first hand from a couple from Colorado which we met while finding a parking space in Corvara.

So there we were, a couple of miles away from our meeting place with our new friends, and away from the mountain hill where the cyclist would soon arrive.

We could still watch the Giro de Italia protagonists, but it would be on a flat or better, mostly downhill road.  Not the optimum place to be but the only place available to us at that moment.

Let’s make the best out of the occasion and enjoy it wherever you are”, Said Maatje and Lode via a WhatsApp message when I  informed them of our situation.

As we had a couple of hours “To Kill” and it was lunch time, we focused first on finding a place to have a bite.  The search proved to be fruitless, a real wild goose chase.  All places were closed except for one bakery open until 12:30. Of all things! 

I couldn’t make sense of it! After all, it was a huge cycling event bringing tourists from all sorts of places in Europe at least!

What if a cycling event as big as the Giro took place in the US, I thought?  All the bars and restaurants would be open, even in the smallest of towns.  It would be transmitted by one of the TV  channels and without a doubt there would be plenty of sports bars to watch the event.

But this was happening in Italy, where leisure and quality of life is more important than the extra $$$  generated by such events( A good thing, but an inconvenient one for us, foreigners).  So there we were in an off-season tourist town(Corvara), without an open bar or restaurant, and of course no sports bars to watch the event.  Literally in the whole town there was one place open and they had only drinks and a dry cheese toast.  NO other food available. No public toilets,  NO gelato places open.  NO stores open.  A beautiful ghost town dormant until the sounds of summer arrives touching doors to open magically.

Some locals came out onto the streets to wait along with us. When the Caravana came in with the loud music, our spirits and the anticipation lifted up.

I thought of Maatje and Lode, our friends, waiting for the events up by Paso Falsarego, where everyone was waving flags, banners, and anything they could get their hands on to show their support for their favorite cyclist. And as the cyclists would draw closer , the cheers would grow louder and more passionate,  propelling the cyclists forward.

As a small crowd kept forming, the rumors spreading of the approaching of the cyclists all build up the adrenaline. The energy and the sheer thrill of being there were indescribable.  The riders pedaled downhill, giving no time for pictures, but enough seconds for cheering with a bunch of strangers. After all, the race is not only about the cyclists competing against each other, but also about the camaraderie and support they receive from the crowd erupting  into a frenzy of cheers and applause.

Witnessing it first hand, reminded me of why Cyclists are considered the modern gladiators. Their courage, risk, sacrifice, dedication and competitive spectacle have great similarities. Gladiators faced immense risks when entering the arena, knowing that their lives hung in the balance. Similarly, professional cyclists willingly expose themselves to perilous conditions during races. They tackle treacherous descents, navigate narrow and winding roads, and contend with unpredictable weather conditions. The sheer courage it takes to push through pain, crashes, and injuries demonstrates their unyielding determination to achieve victory. Their fearlessness in the face of danger echoes the spirit of the ancient gladiators who braved mortal combat for the entertainment of the masses.

On the other hand, the gladiatorial games captivated audiences with their grand displays of skill, strength, and strategy. Similarly, professional cycling events are known for their spectacular displays of athleticism and tactical battles. The peloton, with its tightly packed riders, resembles a modern-day battlefield where strategies are devised, alliances formed, and breakaways initiated. The sight of cyclists sprinting towards the finish line, jostling for position, and executing well-timed attacks evokes a sense of awe and excitement. Just as the gladiatorial games were a spectacle that enthralled ancient crowds, cycling races capture the attention and imagination of spectators worldwide.

Gladiators dedicated their lives to training, sacrificing personal comforts for the sake of glory in the arena. Professional cyclists also make immense sacrifices to reach the pinnacle of their sport. They endure grueling training regimes, adhere to strict dietary guidelines, and make social and personal sacrifices to maintain their competitive edge. The relentless pursuit of success demands unwavering dedication, mental fortitude, and an unyielding work ethic.

The Giro d’Italia is one of the most prestigious cycling races in the world, a 21-day gladiator’s arena.   Being exposed to the spirit, enthusiasm, and passion of both the cyclists and the spectators were truly inspirational.

As we headed back to our car, I missed having shared this moment with my friends as planed, but nevertheless I felt incredibly privileged being a part of the event.  It turned out totally different from what it was conceived, but it was still worth it. Despite things seeming to go wrong the day of the race, they actually were just right! 

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