Jules Heartly | October 10th 2024

October’s travel blog: a trip through the Mediterranean diet

Nestled in the heart of Spain, like a pearl in an oyster, lies the charming town of Borriana, a town part of the Valencian community, located 40 minutes away from Valencia. A Culinary Tapestry Knitted with History and Flavor

This quaint locale is a tapestry woven with threads of rich history and mystery, its fabric still bearing the imprint of its Templar past. The spirit of these ancient warriors seems to whisper through the cobblestone streets, infusing the very air with an essence of chivalry and adventure.

But it’s not just the echoes of history that make Borriana a treasure trove for visitors. The town’s culinary scene, born from a storied fishing tradition, is the crown jewel in its offerings. Here, Mediterranean cuisine reigns supreme, each dish a testament to the knight templar’s ethos of protection and service – only now, it’s the palates of eager diners being safeguarded and indulged.

As a frequent visitor to Borriana, I find myself drawn back time and again, not only by its sun-kissed beaches like El Arenal or the  cycling trails that wind through the countryside. The siren call that truly captivates me is the symphony of flavors orchestrated by the town’s diverse eateries. Each visit is a culinary adventure, with curiosity as my compass, guiding me to discover new gastronomic wonders or rediscover old favorites in their renewed avatars.

Among the culinary constellations that light up Borriana’s gastronomic sky, four stars shine particularly bright: El Tarros, Fogones, Coppelia Bonica, and Gastro-bar Ca La Rosa. These establishments are more than mere restaurants; they are culinary embassies, representing the best of Borriana’s flavors and hospitality.

Let’s begin our gastronomic journey at Pulperia El Tarros, an octopus specialty tasca bar that serves as a culinary lighthouse in Borriana’s sea of eateries. At the helm of this gastronomic vessel is Carlos Aparisi, a modern-day culinary conquistador who has traded his fishing nets and musical instruments for chef’s knives and saucepans. Carlos’s philosophy is as refreshing as a sea breeze – he believes that a delicious meal should be a treasure accessible to all, regardless of the weight of one’s coin purse.

Stepping into El Tarros is like entering a culinary kingdom where every patron is treated like royalty. The menu is a treasure map, with X marking the spots of delectable octopus variations, succulent sepia (cuttlefish), calamares that dance on your tongue, and mussels that sing of the sea. And let’s not forget the catch of the day, which arrives on your plate as if it had leapt straight from the ocean. I was happily surprised with the “Pulpo con queso de tetilla” and with las “croquetas de pulpo”. To conclude your feast, the desserts are the perfect final act in this gastronomic performance, not to miss are the home made cheese cake and the carrot cake, one of the best I’ve ever had.

During one of my visits, I had the privilege of delving into the rich history of El Tarros, much like an archaeologist unearthing ancient artifacts. Carlos Aparisi, with enthusiasm sparkling in his eyes like the Mediterranean sun on water, shared his personal mission: “My motivation for each of my businesses has been to fill a void, to bring to Borriana whatever is lacking.” He spoke of his past ventures, including a concert venue that hosted luminaries like Diego El Cigala, with the same passion that infuses his culinary offerings.

“Octopus is quintessential to this area,” Carlos explained, “but there wasn’t a single place that specialized in octopus dishes. Other cities have Pulperias; we didn’t. So, I created Pulperia El Tarros.” This establishment now stands as a culinary landmark in the famous “El Tarros” building, writing a new chapter in the building’s storied history.

Our culinary odyssey takes us next to the heart of Borriana, where ancient Templar spirits whisper through paved stone streets, and a  modern gastronomic saga unfolds at Fogones, a restaurant that serves as a melting pot of flavors. Owned by Fernando Betancourt and his wife, Marian Molina, both Colombian natives who have planted their roots in Borriana’s fertile soil, Fogones  stands as a testament to the alchemical magic that occurs when diverse culinary traditions collide. As Maria said it “It is a fusion of Colombian and Asian flavors melted in the Spaniard gastronomy.”

During a morning visit, as the aroma of freshly brewed coffee mingled with the tantalizing scents of Fernando’s signature breakfast dish, I had the privilege of delving into the rich tapestry of flavors that defines Fogones.

“We wanted to incorporate authentic Spanish flavors in our dishes to cater to the local community,” Fernando shared, his eyes twinkling with the passion of a culinary explorer. “But we’ve ended up capturing all other cultures, including, of course, the Colombian one.”

Indeed, the menu at Fogones reads like a gastronomic passport, with Spanish cuisine forming the hearty backbone of their culinary journey. “From Colombia, we brought in our own version of Veal Empanadas and Judias Rojas (also known as frijoles or red lubias),” Fernando explained, his words painting vivid pictures of golden-crusted empanadas and rich, velvety beans.

Yet, it’s not just about transplanting recipes from one continent to another. At Fogones, each dish is a canvas for innovation, where traditional Valencian recipes are given new life through the secret alchemy of Colombian culinary wisdom. “All dishes are typical of the Valencian community, but with a secret touch of Colombian ancient recipes, using fresh ingredients and preserving the originality of the dish,” Fernando elaborated. “For example, our Paella Valenciana and the Arroz en caldo de carne, a local favorite, is made based on a very personal adaptation by Marian.”

Maria’s culinary journey is a testament to the unpredictable nature of passion and talent. Like a dormant seed waiting for the right conditions to sprout, her culinary prowess lay hidden until circumstance coaxed it into bloom.

“When I was a teenager, I would come home to my grandma’s for lunch,” Maria reminisced, her gaze distant as if peering through the mists of time. “I was hungry and willing to eat anything, but not even with that appetite was I motivated to eat the food put on the table for me. I would get up and break apart the given meal and proceed to make my own creation out of it.” She paused, a smile playing at the corners of her mouth. “But at the time, I didn’t think of myself as a cook or anything at all. I was just making a dish the way I thought I would like to have it or in a way I could proudly share with someone.”

This youthful experimentation was the first whisper of a culinary voice that would later resound through the bustling kitchen of Fogones. Marian’s unexpected entry into professional cooking reads like a fairytale of culinary destiny.   Her story is not one of the many other chefs who always thought of the cuisine world as a place where once they’d belong.  NO.  She landed there by “accident” one day, when she was called with urgency to help in a restaurant kitchen while the Chef was out sick. 

“I quickly learned how to make the dishes. I researched recipes in books and online. And started right there innovating their offering. Next thing I knew I was making my own sauces and handling the kitchen like a pro. It was within me! I just didn’t know it at the time. The rest is history! I am thankful for that opportunity the universe provided me with on that occasion.”

At Fogones, Fernando and Marian have woven their personal philosophies into the very fabric of their restaurant. “A client must be loved, appreciated, and welcomed not only through our fine service but through our delightful meals,” Marian shared, her words encapsulating the soul of Fogones.

This ethos resonates through every aspect of the dining experience, from the carefully crafted dishes to the warm, attentive service. “We are quite motivated when we get the feedback from our clients or when someone just stops by to say hi or to bring a memory of an event they held in our place and they feel grateful for it,” Marian added, his voice warm with appreciation.

In the grand tapestry of Borriana’s culinary scene, Fogones stands out as a vibrant thread, weaving together traditions, innovations, and heartfelt hospitality. It’s more than just a restaurant; it’s a stage where culinary dreams take flight, where every meal is a performance, and where every satisfied guest is a standing ovation to the artistry of Fernando, Marian and their family.

Our next port of call on this gastronomic voyage is Coppelia Bonica, a jewel nestled near the beautiful El Arenal beach. Its proximity to the port ensures a constant supply of the ocean’s bounty, which the talented chefs transform into edible works of art. From savory mains to heavenly desserts, each dish is a wave of flavor crashing onto the shores of your taste buds. And like any good maritime tale, there’s always a bottle of fine wine to wash it all down.

The final stop on our culinary tour is Gastro-Bar Ca La Rosa, a gourmet restaurant that stands as a cathedral to fine dining. Here, each dish is a prayer to culinary perfection, crafted with only the freshest, highest-quality ingredients. Whether you’re in the mood for traditional Spanish tapas or innovative fusion cuisine, Ca La Rosa promises a religious experience for your palate.

As we conclude our gastronomic pilgrimage through Borriana, it’s clear that the spirit of the Templars lives on in these culinary knights. Just as the ancient order fought to protect their lands, the chefs and owners of El Tarros, Fogones, Coppelia Bonica, and Gastro bar Ca La Rosa wage a daily battle to defend and elevate the honor of Borriana’s cuisine. So, dear traveler, when you find yourself in this enchanting town, be sure to lay siege to these culinary castles. For in Borriana, every meal is not just sustenance, but a feast fit for the knights of old, a culinary adventure that will echo in your memory long after you’ve left its storied shores.

And you dear reader, have you spotted unforgettable eateries while on vacation?  I would love to hear about them!    Drop me a comment!

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